The Last of the Urban Villages

Up until now I associated Guangzhou with a gleaming metropolis that showcases China's blistering economic growth. The colourfully lit up Canton Tower, the architectural wonder that is the opera house and the IFC which towers over Zhujiang Newtown are all perfect examples. However, this image changed last weekend After going to lunch at one of the top dimsum restaurants in Guangzhou, my friend Theresa took me to see a side of Guangzhou that I had previously not been exposed to.

Xian Village is situated in the heart of Guangzhou and unfortunately also in the heart of the CBD (Central Business District). As the government was preparing for the 2010 Asian Games, the area around Xian Village saw a remarkable transformation from marshland to super luxurious flats and office space. According to some reputable sources, the village was offered a substantial sum of money by a real estate developer but when the money was received by the village head, he hit the road, never to be heard of again. Ever since then, the village has been in limbo; some parts have been torn down, others are still left standing.

We entered though a small market that was still blessed with sunlight, but as we turned the corner we were quickly enveloped in darkness. The only light was in small strands that made it through the cracks between buildings and the mess of wires hanging above our heads. Lots of people still live here, and we saw a few convenience stores which provided the only reliable source of light in these alleys. The ground is perpetually damp with constant drops of (hopefully) water falling from the upper floors. I started shooting some pictures but it became clear that photographers were not welcomed. The CCTV's (most modern equipment in the whole area) made me feel somewhat safer but not by much.

We decided to cut our visit short but the experience lingered with me throughout the day. Xiancun is a perfect example of how China's economic boom has made many very rich, but has also left many behind. While I knew these places existed, I was shocked to see it within such close proximity to the glitzy, glamoury parts of the city.

The inhabitants of Xiancun continue to live in their village, a bubble of how it used to be. But it must be difficult for them to leave their small village which is now enveloped by enormous skyscrapers and busy 6 lane roads that represent the new China, the China that left them behind.

Innocence in a dark place: Young girl hangs out in the alleys of Xiancun.

Just smile and try to mind your own attention. Strategies for exploration in urban China.

The alleys in Xiancun looked surprisingly lively. The convenience store provided the most light for passerbys.

One of the few open areas we saw. Exposed, partially demolished buildings and some drying laundry.

Pretty cool circular staircase leading up to an apartment has seen better days.

Street traffic in Xiancun.

Strolling along the alleys of Guangzhou's forgotten village.